This is a very self indulgent account of Richard and Heather Knowles travels as they wander through Europe in search of a different way of life.
This is a very self indulgent account of Richard and Heather Knowles travels as they wander through Europe in search of a different way of life.
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Drove to Rijeka, turned down the coast towards Split. Stopped and put locations of late opening campsites on our map as most were shutting now the tourist season is over. Needed Croatian money and food. Saw first ATM and stopped on harbour side at Stenf opposite open supermarket. Bought provisions, seemed extremely good value. It seems that about 11 kuns to the pound. Would have stopped overnight on harbour and joined in with squid fishermen but for No Parking sign for campers. Drove out of town about 5 km and parked in large roadside lay-by on top of cliffs. Expect fantastic views in morning (if not moved on !). Set up little generator for first time to power computer as inverter playing up. Technology is great when it works.

Garlic Parasol mushrooms, Chicken Risotto (with field mushrooms), choc pud, red wine ( Croatian wine lake) , brandy.

12 October Sunday

 Rab Sunset        Our Garden

Rab Sunset                                                           Our Garden

Travelled down the Croatian coast, not sure where to go really. Decided that we ought to check out each coastal village so that we did not miss out on anywhere really good. Read in Rough Guide that Rab was a really nice island and knew that there was a campsite open until 15/10, so caught ferry at Jablanac. £40 for return trip lasting 10 minutes each way, a bit pricey but we had to do it. East side of island very barren, reminded us of view of Albania from Corfu many years ago on holiday with Mick and Liz Brown. Found campsite, a one star looked a bit tacky, but pitch right next to the sea, with sand and pebble beach and surrounded by Germans. Next morning even though loo block uninviting, the showers made it all worthwhile, hot and very powerful, in danger of increasing size of Richard’s bald patch. Whilst we are on the subject of Richard’s advancing years, needs reading glasses at all times now to interpret anything smaller than a hotel sign, and never stops moaning about it. No washing machine although that was one of the reasons we came to the campsite in the first place. A little old lady that Heather never managed to locate was supposed to be the local launderette, so H had to wash 2 weeks washing by hand (nothing new since she has done this since we set off, launderettes impossible to find in Slovenia and Croatia). Luckily it dried very well.

Sardine salad followed by heated up left over Chicken Risotto with fish, (close your eyes and pretend its Paella), more Croatian wine lake.

13 October Monday

Weather quite sunny, H sunbathed for a while. Richard acquired Croatian Sim card for phone. H busily texts loads of people, for next to nothing. Great to be in contact again. Walked around Rab, pretty old town. Went shopping. Very cheap.

Sardine salad, (Heather needs plenty of oily fish bones to prevent Osteoporosis at her age) Baked potatoes with cheese and onion.

14 October Tuesday

Overcast. (Everybody in ! its spitting and its that wetting rain !) Went for bike ride through forests to remote coves and beaches. Ate breakfast hard boiled eggs, left over cheesy potato skins and cheese and ham butties in deserted cove. Richard found business opportunity mending boats and developing waterside bar on Kristofor beach. (Heather has to slap him every now and again to stop his dreaming). Rest of island seems to be shut apart from Rab town. This island is not flat either, we did 35 kms up and down rough hilly tracks to find these coves and every one with a bar was shut !

Lunch stop         Business opportunity

                                                                       Lunch stop                                                  Business opportunity  

Pork Korma curry, (both have a bit of a jippy tum, thought this would sort it). No wine ! Must be ill.

One long phone call, no credit left on phone, must be more careful in future.

15 October Wednesday

Richard went fishing in Rab town harbour, caught small bream and mullet. (Two big enough to eat, small ones apparently good for soup .) Sunny day but windy. Heather asked by local wasn’t she freezing in shorts and T shirt. It is still 21 degrees.

16 October  Thursday

Decided that we would leave late Thursday afternoon, park up late on ferry port (save camping fee) and catch early ferry next morning and make our way down to Split and Dubrovnik. Paid our dues in the morning. Richard went into town and topped up the phone. Heather visited by old German guy (76 years old) we had talked to before who had travelled all over Europe in last 20 years. Merits of wintering in Morocco sold to her. “Why stay in Europe for winter, it is too cold, and why go down to Dubrovnik, it is expensive and 1000 extra kilometres, I would set off straight away to Morocco, you can be there in a week.” He explained in faultless English, picked up from British airmen whom he worked with in Germany after the war. Richard convinced of new plan on return. Sunbathed all day and ate Mullet Meuniere for late lunch on the beach. (a la Rick Stein).

Mullet Meuniere

Mullet Meuniere

Came to leave campsite at 1730 hrs. Electric cable locked into supply and no-one to unlock it so we will have to stay another night. Went into Rab to Internet café.

Chicken Paprika (bought some good Paprika here) and Pommes de Terre Dauphinoises. Very tasty.

17 October Friday

Left in morning to catch ferry. Went into new Rab town to pick up provisions, bought loads of meat and veg for very little.. Had coffee and pastry in café run by lovely friendly Croatian woman. “What are you English doing here on Rab ?”, was her opening gambit. “Getting to like Rab more and more, the longer we stay”, would have been a good response. Just missed 1230 ferry,(we were too big to fit the last space) next one 1500 hours (winter timetable) so much for early start. Extra boat put on because of demand at 1400hrs. First on and off. Felt like we were driving it.



[Loire/Ile De Re] [Dordogne and Gorges] [Summer Alps] [Italy] [Slovenia] [Croatia] [On The Road To Morrocco] [Monte Carlo or Bust] [Spain, Benidorm and Gibraltar] [Rabat And All That] [El Jadida, Ounara, Essouria] [More meanderings & out of Africa] [Snowmads] [Snowmads 2] [Richard -  The BIG 50 !!!] [Eastern Europe] [Eastern Europe (cont)]


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