Drove to Rijeka, turned
down the coast towards Split. Stopped and put locations
of late opening campsites on our map as most were shutting
now the tourist season is over. Needed Croatian money
and food. Saw first ATM and stopped on harbour side
at Stenf opposite open supermarket. Bought provisions,
seemed extremely good value. It seems that about 11
kuns to the pound. Would have stopped overnight on harbour
and joined in with squid fishermen but for No Parking
sign for campers. Drove out of town about 5 km and parked
in large roadside lay-by on top of cliffs. Expect fantastic
views in morning (if not moved on !). Set up little
generator for first time to power computer as inverter
playing up. Technology is great when it works.
Garlic Parasol mushrooms,
Chicken Risotto (with field mushrooms), choc pud, red
wine ( Croatian wine lake) , brandy.
12 October Sunday
Travelled down the
Croatian coast, not sure where to go really. Decided
that we ought to check out each coastal village so that
we did not miss out on anywhere really good. Read in
Rough Guide that Rab was a really nice island and knew
that there was a campsite open until 15/10, so caught
ferry at Jablanac. £40 for return trip lasting 10 minutes
each way, a bit pricey but we had to do it. East side
of island very barren, reminded us of view of Albania
from Corfu many years ago on holiday with Mick and Liz
Brown. Found campsite, a one star looked a bit tacky,
but pitch right next to the sea, with sand and pebble
beach and surrounded by Germans. Next morning even though
loo block uninviting, the showers made it all worthwhile,
hot and very powerful, in danger of increasing size
of Richard’s bald patch. Whilst we are on the subject
of Richard’s advancing years, needs reading glasses
at all times now to interpret anything smaller than
a hotel sign, and never stops moaning about it. No washing
machine although that was one of the reasons we came
to the campsite in the first place. A little old lady
that Heather never managed to locate was supposed to
be the local launderette, so H had to wash 2 weeks washing
by hand (nothing new since she has done this since we
set off, launderettes impossible to find in Slovenia
and Croatia). Luckily it dried very well.
Sardine salad followed
by heated up left over Chicken Risotto with fish, (close
your eyes and pretend its Paella), more Croatian wine
13 October Monday
Weather quite sunny,
H sunbathed for a while. Richard acquired Croatian Sim
card for phone. H busily texts loads of people, for
next to nothing. Great to be in contact again. Walked
around Rab, pretty old town. Went shopping. Very cheap.
Sardine salad, (Heather
needs plenty of oily fish bones to prevent Osteoporosis
at her age) Baked potatoes with cheese and onion.
14 October Tuesday
in ! its spitting and its that wetting rain !) Went
for bike ride through forests to remote coves and beaches.
Ate breakfast hard boiled eggs, left over cheesy potato
skins and cheese and ham butties in deserted cove. Richard
found business opportunity mending boats and developing
waterside bar on Kristofor beach. (Heather has to slap
him every now and again to stop his dreaming). Rest
of island seems to be shut apart from Rab town. This
island is not flat either, we did 35 kms up and down
rough hilly tracks to find these coves and every one
with a bar was shut !
Lunch stop Business opportunity
Pork Korma curry,
(both have a bit of a jippy tum, thought this would
sort it). No wine ! Must be ill.
One long phone call,
no credit left on phone, must be more careful in future.
15 October Wednesday
Richard went fishing
in Rab town harbour, caught small bream and mullet.
(Two big enough to eat, small ones apparently good for
soup .) Sunny day but windy. Heather asked by local
wasn’t she freezing in shorts and T shirt. It is still
16 October Thursday
Decided that we would
leave late Thursday afternoon, park up late on ferry
port (save camping fee) and catch early ferry next morning
and make our way down to Split and Dubrovnik. Paid our
dues in the morning. Richard went into town and topped
up the phone. Heather visited by old German guy (76
years old) we had talked to before who had travelled
all over Europe in last 20 years. Merits of wintering
in Morocco sold to her. “Why stay in Europe for winter,
it is too cold, and why go down to Dubrovnik, it is
expensive and 1000 extra kilometres, I would set off
straight away to Morocco, you can be there in a week.”
He explained in faultless English, picked up from British
airmen whom he worked with in Germany after the war.
Richard convinced of new plan on return. Sunbathed all
day and ate Mullet Meuniere for late lunch on the beach.
(a la Rick Stein).
Came to leave campsite
at 1730 hrs. Electric cable locked into supply and no-one
to unlock it so we will have to stay another night.
Went into Rab to Internet café.
Chicken Paprika (bought
some good Paprika here) and Pommes de Terre Dauphinoises.
17 October Friday
Left in morning to
catch ferry. Went into new Rab town to pick up provisions,
bought loads of meat and veg for very little.. Had coffee
and pastry in café run by lovely friendly Croatian woman.
“What are you English doing here on Rab ?”, was her
opening gambit. “Getting to like Rab more and more,
the longer we stay”, would have been a good response.
Just missed 1230 ferry,(we were too big to fit the last
space) next one 1500 hours (winter timetable) so much
for early start. Extra boat put on because of demand
at 1400hrs. First on and off. Felt like we were driving